Wednesday, March 30, 2022

Roving Around to the Ends of the Earth

 I arrived in Addis on a Sunday morning. By the time I was settled in my guesthouse room, I had already been contacted by former Gambella mission friends who have now relocated to Addis. I hired a taxi to their house for a wonderful Sunday dinner and lots of reminiscing and talking about how to do mission best (or at least better). Monday, I visited with another mission friend, who is also a friend from school days in Addis. No shortage of things to talk about there, either! 

And then on Tuesday I arrived in Gambella to the house we left 2 1/2 years ago where some of our stuff is still, and more importantly, where many friends still are and will be for many years to come. I reunited with my  not-actually-adopted Oromo "grand-daughter", Meraaj, and her parents and brother, and enjoyed a good home-cooked Ethiopian meal complete with Ethiopian coffee, fresh roasted and ground! The best!

The next morning I was told we would leave "early" to go to Burbei to attend the West Gambella Bethel Synod Annual Convention - a gathering of all the presbytery and synod leaders to manage and organize the work of the church. I woke up at 7 and figured I had at least an hour, so I got a cup of coffee and got my stuff together and by 9 someone came to tell me we'd be going soon, so we'd go get some breakfast together first. We walked to the hotel, ordered and ate breakfast, walked back, sat and talked a while. The car came and we were on the road at 12:30. The five hour drive to Burbei was uneventful with the exception of one easily fixed flat tire. 

Arriving at the church where we were to spend the next four days, we extricated ourselves from the truck and began unloading our stuff from the back, and suddenly there were people grabbing our stuff and running and dancing with it across the field to the gate of the church compound. At the gate of the compound the women of Burbei Presbytery greeted us with the traditional feet, arms, and head washing along with lots of singing and laughing. 

I emerged fantastically welcomed!

First things first - all the travelers and welcomers gathered at the meeting place to give thanks to God.

Then we went to settle our stuff in the places where we would be staying for the next few days. I put my stuff in the "bileh" (a temporary shelter), where it would be out of the weather, and set up a mosquito net where I would lie comfortably on a mattress looking up at the stars until I fell asleep. Nights were cool - down to the low 70s (Fahrenheit). I would cover up with a doubled over sheet.

As more participants arrived there was more singing, dancing, washing, and praying throughout the evening. The meetings started after a communion worship service the next morning. 

Michael and I have been to several of this kind of meeting. For me, they are wonderful days of fellowship and camaraderie along with the necessary business of church organization. We are invited guests, with no voting rights or responsibilities, but are given the chance to comment on various topics that come up. I don't understand nearly enough of the Nuer language to follow the discussions without interpretation, but I enjoy listening to decipher words I do know and try to figure out some I don't. I'm not sure Nuers actually speak their language - they swallow most of it, as far as I can hear. But laughing and joyful singing I can understand clearly - and that happens a lot! 

The "Convention Center"

The meeting was conducted tactfully by Rev. James Gatdet Tang, the synod president. The organizers made time in the mornings (5:30!) and evenings to pray for the meeting and participants. There were few disagreements, few tough decisions, but even the one that could have erupted in anger was well-managed because of the time dedicated to prayer and the wise leadership skills of Rev. James. Several years ago, Michael and I attended the first annual synod convention led by Rev. James. At that time the synod was struggling to meet all its financial responsibilities. Rev. James explained the process of keeping accurate records and making appropriate contributions up the church chain so that the work the members expected could happen smoothly. At that meeting there was a lot of animated discussion and not everyone left in full agreement. 

This meeting was very different. Most presbyteries are understanding the need for and the method of counting, collecting, and dispersing that serves the needs of all church workers. Presbyteries were given awards for meeting goals and for making attempts to meet goals. The participants left with a sense of accomplishment. 

Burbei Presbytery is on the western edge of Ethiopia, right up against South Sudan, after the asphalt road ends. It is one of the most desolate places I have ever been to. We ate fish. Nothing else is locally available. Some of it was fished out of the river a couple miles away and some of it was dug out of the mud where they were "hibernating" (is that what they do?) until the rains start again and the river rises over its banks. It was boiled or fried or made into a stew and was served with corn porridge made from dry corn brought from Gambella or a couple times with fresh corn brought from the river banks. The corn was ground on a stone at the "convention center". 

Burbei is one of those areas where any sickness is possibly fatal. Clean water from the borehole is a hot 30 min walk away and even hotter and more tired return with a full 25 liter jerry can on her head. No one complains. It's life. During the meetings a woman fell over with exhaustion with a fever from malaria (probably). I gave her the round of malaria medicine I carry with me just in case I get bit by a mosquito on my way back to the States. A million dollars couldn't have bought it for her - it simply is not available in Burbei. I'll get a replacement for less than $1 before I return to the States ... just in case. 

Next week I'm hoping to have some time with the East Gambella Bethel Synod and my Anywaa and Majangir colleagues to talk about their work and how I can continue to to support them.  But for the next few days I will be figuring out how to get Michael's books into suitcases without going over the airline weight limit - they're huge theology books and only a few of them take up half the allowed weight of one piece of luggage. Maybe I'll use the other half for hand roasted coffee. That should work.

The village outside the convention center.
The cows came home - as they do every night.






6 comments:

  1. I would enjoy seeing those stars at night. Appreciate visualizing your journey. God keep you safe.

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  2. Rachel, thank you, thank you, thank you! For sharing with great clarity your first days with these old friends whom I long to see again. Your descriptions call forth so many memories from times together with West and East Gambella folks and the desolate, dry, cracked land. Please pass my greetings to Rev James and his family and many others from both Bethel Synods. I learned so much from each of them back in 2010-2014 and beyond. I'm grateful to God and folks like you and Michael and Reimers and Breezy Lusted, to name just a few of the mission coworkers who have dedicated their lives to partner with the folks in Ethiopia and Sudan and beyond to bring peace and reconciliation and Bible literacy and community building and food sustainability skills for countless individuals and communities. Again and again we see how God has worked through each of you to make a way when it seemed there was no way. Praise God for melting our stony hearts and replacing them with compassionate teachable loving hearts to shine out Jesus' gracious Light and Love! God be with you till we meet again. Carolyn Weber

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  3. Rachel, your reward for waiting patiently for the "right" time to return. God with you! Sleeping arrangement, food, Rev James, women and their attention to your welcome and your stay - music and dancing. It all is so very special and I praise God you were able to attend and that you found internet so that we could also "be there"!

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  4. Coartem? for the anti malarial? I love that stuff, it is a God-send and should be more broadly available throughout the continent. It is a game changer. Enjoy, sister, enjoy. Breathe deep, eat well, and laugh and pray more...

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  5. Rachel, we are so thankful that you could make this trip. Joan and Dave Dawson

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  6. Thank you for your interesting letter. Boggles my mind at your life. Rose

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